South Pembrokeshire Coastal Walk by Motorhome

Follow the Acorn

The primary motivation to visit South Pembrokeshire was twofold; firstly I had promised Julia a visit to Skomer to see the Puffins in May, but the weather was so awful that we decided to postpone. Ok the Puffins had long since gone but there would be plenty of other things to see. The second reason is that the Pembrokeshire coastal walk  is considered to be one of the classic world walks and comparison has been made with walks, such as the Inca Trail and as we are doing the Inca Trail in October it seemed an ideal time to visit and get some training in, albeit at a lower altitude.

We had no intention of completing the walk as some rite of passage and in fact we did not have any real intentions at all, other than to end up at St Davids and to precede our visit with a trip to Brecon to climb Pen Y Fan.

Additionally we did not want to do the 'industrial' part of the walk via Milford Haven, though coincidentally we met two older guys, on two separate occasions who were doing the whole walk and they found this section interesting, as they were able to watch all the sea traffic,  though they admitted there was a lot of 'hard' walking and they would not do it again.

Wisemans Bridge

Our first stop, as we could not get into MillHouse Caravan Park at Stepaside. I was warned that the toilet facilities at the campsite were not the best and that warning proved to be true, which is a shame as it is a great location, being only 100 metres from the sea, though you can not see the sea from the site. I really can not understand why they can not make some effort and keep the facilities clean. If this is beyond them then they do not deserve the trade. If you have got a car there are better sites in the area . If you are in a motorhome,  I suggest you ring Millhouse (01834812069).  Millhouse is only a 15 minute walk to the coast following,  I believe the old railway link from Saundersfoot to the old ironworks at Stepaside.(the path can be accessed from the beach, it runs next to the public conveniences) The latter together with the old Grove colliery above it,  are a reminder of this area's proud and vibrant industrial past, even though working conditions were not at their best, so we perhaps should not lament the past.

Wisemans Bridge to Amroth

A short walk following the coastal path eastwards takes you to Amroth, which does not have a lot to commend it for,though there is a beach and a number of cafes, but it is the official start of the Pembrokeshire coastal walk, I know this as there is a plaque.

Wisemans Bridge to Tenby

A walk westwards along the coastal path takes you to the two seaside gems  of Saundersfoot and Tenby. The total walk is about 5.5 miles so lunch in Tenby is a good option. The former is only about a 20 minute walk and has the added variety of a cliff tunnel, the route of the old railway to the ironworks, before you open up to a glorious beach and you see the town nestling in the bay with its harbour in the distance. It is a lively town and you can see why it is popular, a scenic location and a great beach and I think a certain old world charm. This is not Southend.

Onward to Tenby: You have to go into town and take the main road out, up the hill and take the first turning left and go to Rhode Wood, which immediately faces you at the end of the road, do not follow the road round the right bend. You will see the walk marker tucked in the woods- remember you have to follow the acorn. Miss it and you could end up exploring the woods, which would not be unpleasant.

The coastal route to Tenby does involve a number of descents and climbs and steps,which we were quite pleased about, as it provided good training to what we might expect on the Inca Trail.

As you enter Tenby you will see the town circled around the bay, take the steep steps down and walk along the beach into the town.

Tenby is a delightful old fortified town with its narrow streets,town walls virtual absence of traffic, its quaint harbour, old lifeboat house and sheltered beaches and absence of the normal paraphernalia of a seaside town. It has an old fashioned feel to it, yet it is nevertheless very alive and is always busy. It has a wide selection of places to eat and a wide variety of shops catering for both tourists and locals.

As with many of these seaside towns it  proved popular in Victorian times with a special pier being built to accomodate the steamers which is now the site of the new lifeboat station.

The 15th century merchant's house, a National Trust property, is worth a visit.

After exploring the town, the best option is to get the bus back to Wisemans Bridge, which is an experience in itself, as the bus literaly goes around the houses, to get you to your final destination. The  alternative is to get a bus to Saundersfoot and walk back from their. Both buses leave from next to Sainsbury's , outside the towns walls.

Tenby to Freshwater East

For this section we based ourselves at Park Farm Holiday Park Manorbier ( tel 01834 871273),  a greenfield site with excellent rural views and easy access to the coastal path by a 10 minute walk via Manorbier Castle.

It was good fun exploring Manorbier Castle, which is privately owned, but open to the public and is remarkably well preserved, primarily because this castle was never attacked. I get the impression that the Welsh of Pembrokeshire came more easily to a relationship with the Norman invaders than their  North or  mid Wales countryman. Perhaps this was a more pragamtic approach, given that the region is surrounded by the sea and easily accessible and no mountains to escape to, but I am no expert on Welsh history. After exploration and stepping back in time you can come up to date with tea and cakes in the cafe in the castle.

Manorbier to Tenby

We actually stopped at Lydstep Haven as we had been in Tenby the previous day and also  the OS map shows a rifle range just outside of Tenby. The total return walk was about 13 to 14 miles so a picnic lunch was in order and a welcome pint back at the Castle Inn afterwards. We also stocked up at the local Londis in the village which was a veritable Aladdin's cave; who needs Tescos?

Manorbier to Freshwater

This is a 9 mile return walk along the coast to Freshwater Bay and  is similiar in terrain to the walk to Lydstep, with a mixture of ups and downs and oustanding coastal cliff views. There is a pub in Freshwater East if you need refreshment . We also used the opportunity to check out the campsite at Freshwater East and found out it was a Caravan Club site,  from a couple who we met on the beach,  who said that it was of normal high quality Caravan Club standards. The downside for us was that they wanted a £10 non member fee and we baulked at that, as we thought £28 a night was over the top. So we needed to find another site in the area for our next stage.

Freshwater Bay to St Govan's

The plan of action was to walk from Freshwater East to St Govan's and catch the Puffin Bus back . This an excellent service along various parts of the coast which runs 3 times a day and allows you to either get the bus and walk back or vice versa. The advantage of the former is that it prevents the waiting for the bus at the end of your walk.

It is a hail and ride service, i.e you can catch it anywhere on its route, as long as you make it obvious that you want to catch it,  but be warned, even in a car park make it obvious that you want to catch it. Also it will drop you off whereever you want it to. It is like having your own taxi service.

Also be aware that for older English & Scottish buspass holders these are not valid on these buses.

Our campsite issue was resolved by finding a certificated site at Upper Portclew Farm, a site with great views towards Freshwater Bay and though the facilities were dated they were clean and it was only a 10 minute walk to the beach  and the bus saved us the trek uphill on the return journey.

The total walk is about 7-8 miles, the first section to Stackpole Quay (on the bus route) is up and down and therafter you are walking fairly level,following the cliff tops until you descend to Broadhaven. This walk not only combines the key sites of Stackpole, Barafundle Bay and Broadhaven but has magnificent geological formations, stacks, arches and geological faults abound.

Stackpole Quay is an ideal lunch stop and we were lucky enough to grab the only picnic table overlooking the quay. An alternative is to stop at the Boathouse, a National Trust teashop just above the Quay, where we took a takeout coffee and I surpassed myself by being able to resist the cakes.

After lunch climb upto Stackpole Head and do not get tempted to take the short cut, go around the head and you will be rewarded with outstanding scenery. We had the additional reward of seeing a pair of choughs which are a pretty rare site. The walking is basically level until you descend to Barafundle Bay.

You walk down into Barafundle Bay, cross the sands then climb up to continue the walk on the level  until you reach Broadhaven and enjoy the scenery of stacks and arches on the way.

If you thought Barafundle Bay was good, wait until you come to Broadhaven, it is stunning, with the sea in front of you and the lily  ponds behind you. You have a choice here,continue along to the chapel at St Govans, where you can catch the bus at the car park or alternativley continue to the back of the bay and take the route around the Lily Ponds to Bosherston; the upper route around the right of the ponds in my view is the more picturesque.

If you are lucky,as we were,  you can catch sight of otters playing in the ponds,  yes,  even in daylight.

You continue up to the car park and then up to the road where you can catch the bus. Here there is also a pub and cafe.

The path goes inland, after St Govans, to avoid an artillery range, before it joins the coast again at Freshwater West and the Angle peninsula, there is a Puffin bus that goes around this way but that will have to wait for another day.

Little Haven to Newgale Beach

Our original plan was to stay at the site at Hasguard Cross, which has had good reviews but we discovered the site at Howelston, which had the advantage that the coastal path was literally at the bottom of the site and it had fantastic views over  St Brides Bay. We received a great welcome and we had the benefit that we were the only tourer on site, which primarily is a static site,  but has space for a limited number of tourers.

It also was on the route of the Puffin Bus from St Davids to Marloes. It also connects with a service to Dale and beyond to Milford Haven.

There appear to be constant reminders of the fact that you are on a cliff edge and in some cases very close to the edge, and that is one of the primary attractions of the coastal walk.I found this sign amusing but there is a serious point, they have to be treated with respect. In these days of health and safety I suppose there is no alternative . This one is near Druidston Haven which is a popular site for horse riding on the beach from the nearby stables.

The total walk is about 7 to 8 miles, so either walk their and get the Puffin  bus back or better still get the first bus their and walk back to Little Haven.

Little Haven has that quaint feel to it, though historically it was a busy coal mining area and the port was used to transport this bulky commodity. The coal was anthracite, which is the best quality coal, but it had the disadavantage that in this area it was in narrow seams and heavily faulted. You have only got to look at the coast to see what mother nature has done to the geography of this area.

The coal has long since gone and you are left with a picturesque little port heavily dependent on tourism. It does also feel like it is a little gastronomic outpost with a number of places available for dining. The Swan and the Nest Bistro are two examples,towards the higher end of the market, specialising in seafood, not necessarily cheap but they have a reputation for quality.

Its bigger neighbour, Broadhaven with its larger sandy bay has a wider choice and also there is a Londis supermarket available . When the tide is out, you can walk along the sands, otherwise you have to take the road.

Newgale Beach - I have to make a confession here, I took this picture on a sunny day when we were driving to St Davids. On our walk it was raining and though you can wax lyrical about the atmospheric view on a rainy day; you can not beat a beach on a sunny day. This is a popular beach,with surfers,kitesurfers and families, as access is so easy from the main road.

There is a campsite right next to the Duke of Edinburgh  pub, which appeared closed and seems to be non electric as well, but a great location.

You can get a coffee at the Pebbles cafe whilst waiting for the Puffin Bus, which stops right outside.

There is a campsite at Newgale Beach

Little Haven to St Brides Haven

This is an 8 mile return walk, the first mile is in woodland or a hollow lane with tantalising glimpses of the sea and then it opens up with the full splendour of the coastal scenery.

Is this a natural phenomenon or not and I am not referring to Julia?

St Brides Haven picture below. Above the haven,on the hill, is the 'big house' for the estate owners,  St Brides Castle. The estate at one time covered the islands of Skomer, Grassholm and Skokholm before it was sold off in the 1920's. the house at one time was a hospital and is now holiday apartments.

Grassholm is home of a gannett colony and you are sure to be rewarded with sight of these magnificent birds, flying along the coast and even better when you see them dive.

In the car park is a restored pumphouse, which used to provide water for the manor and there is also a history display relating to the surrounding area. There are also remains of the Abbey and cottages used by the estate workers but no teahouse; but the scouts were in residence at the Abbey when we arrived and offered us a cuppa.

St Brides Haven is used by divers and also by sea kayaks.